Saturday, April 21, 2012

04-21-2012: Kathmandu

I have been in Kathmandu 2 days no. I miscalculated my time here. I have too much time. So I take it slow. I could go somewhere else for a couple of days but I am lazy ;)
It's been nice so far tho. I bumped into Dasha yesterday. I saw Nabim again, and this morning I had breakfast with Cristina and Jordi, the Spanish couple from Chitwan. They are also staying at Tibet Peace Guesthouse.

To fill my day I walk through the streets of the city and observe life around me. The days start very slowly here. Shops open late. There is a lot less traffic which is nice. Less noise from the constant honking and also less dust in the air, not  like at 5pm when it is complete chaos with cars, people, motorbike and cows fighting they way around.
Because Nepal is very poor, the roads are in a bad state, half broken and filled with potholes.
Kathmandu is a lot closer to India than the rest of the country. Outside of Thamel, the tourist area which is fairly clean with pavement, poverty is visible in all corners. Some streets are very dirty. Yesterday, as I was coming back from a visit to the Monkey temple ( I stopped by a very nice Buddhist monastery on the way where the monks were chanting: beautiful and so peaceful), I decided to start taking pisctures of the ugly side of the country. Crossing a bridge I took pictures of the river bank covered with plastic bag. The water is so polluted no fish can live and the smell is very strong. Yuk!
This morning I passed by a very skinny and dirty woman sleeping on the road by a temple. This is not what the whole country is but it is there and I want to show the true version of this trip. It is fantastic, but it is not all pretty.
Still we don't reach the levels of dirtiness you can find in a lot more places in India.
Since I am in a more descriptive mode today, I should mention certain facts that I learned from the Nepalese people I met.
Again people are poor here and they often have to go work abroad for a few years and send money back home to support their families. This is the case for the 2 guides I had in Chitwan and the great waiter of the guesthouse there.. They worked in India and Malaysia for a while. The waiter explained to me that in Malaysia he had to leave for 5 years and was only allowed to return to Nepal once during that time.. On the other end he was able to visit Bangkok for pleasure.
It is interesting that even with the hardship, they mostly talk about the positive side of things. It seems to be the way people look at life in Nepal. Always positive. Most of the people involved in tourism seem to really enjoy it. They love meeting foreigners. Twice I heard them saying "It's OK if we can not travel the world, because the world comes to us". I like this line :)
I learned also ( that only applies to Hindus) that most people's first name are not their "official" names. 15 days after they are born (I think), the Lama (priest) comes to give them a name which will be their registered names for birth certificates, passport, etc.. But the name that every body uses to call them is given by the community they live in. It is a more simple one and most of the time nobodies knows your "registered" name.
Another thing I learned is that in case of the death of one parent, the first son becomes responsible for the whole family, the education of their siblings, etc.. So they have to start working and earn money for the rest of the family. This is the case for Nabim, the waiter and the manager of Chitwan Gaida Lodge. This is also why they often have to go work abroad. This is a very big responsibility they have and accept as part of the rule of their culture.
One last thing. Like in India, when 2 people get married, the wife moves in with the husband family (parents and sibling all under one roof).
There is also a cast system in Nepal, but it is rapidly changing because of modern ideas , but also because the government majority is Maoist and they do not recognize the cast system instated by the monarchy before: Nepal was a monarchy until 4 years ago in constant conflict with the Maoist the decade before.
Nabim is from a lower cast than his wife, and they had to run away to get married. For 2 years after, his family in law didn't want anything to do with them anymore. But it changed with the birth of their daughter. She is 14 now and they also have a 9 years old boy. Nabim is 35 and his wife younger.
OK, that's it for today, I have to go meet Nabim for dinner and see him play with his band later.




This the making of momos, some sort of ravioli stuffed with veggies, meat or cheese. Then there are stimmed or fried.










Thursday, April 19, 2012

04-19-2012: Back in crazy Kathmandu

I arrived in Kathmandu today late afternoon.
I went to visit Nabim (Tais' Nepali friend I met on the trek) at his Aquarium shop near Dunbar Square. He offered me Nepali tea and dinner of momos, a speciality from here. Some friends of him came and played guitar and sang. It was really nice to see him again. I will meet him again tomorrow afternoon before going to the Monkey Temple, and I will probably go see him play with his band on Saturday

Anyway, I am back in crazy noise again. So many people and dust. I will spend my last few days visiting some temple and shopping and hopefully meet up with the Spanish couple travellers I met in Chitwan.

On a sad note my computer died on me 2 days ago. So I can't edit my pictures anymore which I was planing on doing to update the blog. That's sucks. I hope I can recover some stuff when I come back. But it doesn't sound good. I went to a shop today to have it looked at and they didn't seem optimistic. I still have all the pics in my memory cards, so that's OK. But I might have lost all the work I had done on the one I posted. A well...


 

04-16-2012 to 04-18-2012 : Relax in Chitwan

I have spent 3 and a half day in Chitwan now. What a relaxing time.
On my second day I went for a whole day Jungle trek to look for rhinos , bears and maybe tigers. It was just me and 2 guides. In the end I saw 4 rhinos and a quick glimpse at a bear. But as I was going through the jungle I was thinking of how stupid of me it was to do that now with what is coming this summer ;)
Reports of accidents are usually of single villagers, no tourist groups. Apparently one was killed by a tiger 2 weeks ago.
Anyway, nothing went wrong. It usually doesn't. But it definitely has risks.
We had a really close accounter with rhinos in the morning as we started walking. As we reached bushes 2 Rhinos that we didn't notice before ran away. This was quite surprising and a bit scary.
The 2 other rhinos we were able to see where at a lake where we stayed for a while waiting for them.
Outside of that we saw many birds dears and an bear butt ;)
This was an OK day. The guides were great and very professional. It is incredible how their eyes are trained. They can notice animals coming so far in the distance.
The thing I shouldn't have done tho, is to go on an hour boat tour before end. I was added to a Chinese tour group who couldn't stop talking and moving around in long and unstable long boat. This was not worth it even if I saw a couple of crocodiles.
































It is really hot here now compare to 2 days ago. So yesterday and today were quite lazy days, Chilling out some more in the hammock, going bathing with elephants in the river, relaxing some more before riding with Cristina and Jordi (a spanish couple also from Barcolona, who are half way through their 6 months travel) to the elephant breeding center to meet baby elephants including a 4 days old.








































































Then today I rented a bicycle to visit the villages surrounding the little tourist hub where I am staying. People were again very friendly. The houses are very different here. The traditional way is to build walls with bamboo stick that are then covered with clay. Often you can also see paint decorations like hands or baby feet on those walls. But more and more those houses are replaced with cement and brick ones. They are not as charming but more practical and long lasting. By lunch time it was so hot that the only thing to do was to sit and relax for a few hours. So I did ;) I will ride some more this evening, get a drink by the river for sunset and that will be it for today ;)
Tomorrow I am living for Kathmandu where I will spend 4 days before heading back to France.
I will meet again with Navim and Nima. And I will also probably meet again with Cristina and Jordi who left today. A few temples and another Dunbar Square visit, and shopping.
















































Well this is quite a boring entry. I wasn't bored tho. Chitwan was a great stop and a nice break from the noise of the cities.
One funny note. Per Nepalese school books, we have no mosquitoes in France:) Since I arrived in Chitwan 2 persons asked me were I was from and when I said France they informed me that we didn't have mosquitoes in France. When I told the guesthouse restaurant manager that this was wrong, he told me that this is actually something they learn in school. Anyway, we had a good laugh about it.

Now on a sad note. I will not be able to post any more pictures or very few until I get back to France as my computer doesn't want to start up anymore unless I have time to stop by a computer shop in Kathmandu.
I will let you know when everything is up. It will be soon. Promise ;)

As I was drinking a Coke by the river at sunset a crew was shooting a movie. Later I was told that the guy is a famous Nepali action movie star. Nice Mullet ;)